Innovating Time: Ming Thein’s Unconventional Journey in Horology

In the world of horology, Ming Thein stands as a testament to innovation and audacity. As the founder of the Malaysian high-end watch brand Ming, Thein has charted an unconventional path to success. Despite graduating from Oxford University with a degree in physics at the tender age of 16, his journey into the world of watches was anything but straightforward. After an unsatisfying stint in the finance sector, Thein's passion for design and mechanics led him to found Ming in 2017 with five other partners. Since its inception, the brand has released over 70 distinctive references, marking a significant footprint in the industry.

Thein's eclectic background, which includes roles such as chief of strategy for Hasselblad and advisor to DJI, has equipped him with a unique perspective on design and engineering. His deep-rooted passion for photography has further influenced his approach to watchmaking, having collaborated with renowned brands like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and A. Lange & Söhne. Despite lacking formal training in design or engineering, Thein helms these crucial departments at Ming, alongside overseeing photography.

Ming's production model defies convention by handling high-value work in Asia and subcontracting production to Europe, a reversal of typical industry practices. As Thein himself noted:

“The more typical approach is for high-value design and intellectual property work to be done in Europe, before being subcontracted to Asia for cost efficiency.” – Ming Thein

The brand's debut watch, the Ming 17.01, launched in 2017, featured a Sellita movement housed in a 38mm titanium case. This model set the tone for Ming's future creations—innovative designs coupled with material sophistication. Thein's creative process is rigorous, juggling over 150 concepts at any time, with a dedicated wall in the Ming office serving as a testament to his relentless ideation.

In a bold statement about his venture into watchmaking, Thein reflects on the challenges:

“Seriously, which idiot thinks it’s a good idea to start a watch company in the wrong part of the world and with no experience?” – Ming Thein

His relentless pursuit of excellence paid off when Ming won the Sports Watch Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), triumphing over established Swiss giants. This accolade underscores the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries and redefining what is possible in watch design.

The ultra-light LW.01 watch exemplifies this innovation, weighing merely 8.8g for the manual version and 10.8g for the automatic. Such feats are not achieved without painstaking effort—Thein describes their production model as having a 10 to 1 discard ratio, indicating that only one in ten designs reach production. This rigorous curation ensures that each piece meets the highest standards of quality and creativity.

Reflecting on his unique career trajectory and industry challenges, Thein muses:

“It’s also a bit masochistic and egotistical to go into an industry that is both antiquated and not particularly necessary.” – Ming Thein

He continues to challenge conventional wisdom by believing that creating purely populist products is a misstep:

“Trying to make a purely populist product is a mistake.” – Ming Thein

Thein's expertise as a photographer has been instrumental in his approach to watch design. His ability to observe intricately has translated into creating timepieces that captivate attention through their aesthetic and technical prowess.

“Photographers spend a lot of time observing things.” – Ming Thein

Ming's innovative production model reflects Thein's bold vision. Instead of following traditional European-led processes, the brand flips the script by bringing high-value work to Asia first. This method allows for meticulous quality control before finalizing products back in Asia.

Despite the inherent challenges of entering a saturated market with little formal experience, Thein's confidence and drive have propelled Ming to new heights:

“And to make it worse, you go in thinking you can do a better job than people who have been doing it for centuries. In what way is that sane?” – Ming Thein

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