In the city of Semarang, located on the northern coast of Java, a unique journey unfolds as Pippo, a 50-year-old private tutor and amateur historian, embarks on a mission to unearth the forgotten graves of the Chinese community. Over the past four years, Pippo has scoured the city’s vast 373 square kilometers, delving into its history and uncovering burial sites that have long been hidden by urban development. Despite the challenges, Pippo’s dedication to preserving this heritage is unwavering, as he seeks to reconnect individuals with their ancestral roots and shed light on an overlooked chapter of Semarang's past.
The paths of Semarang are often paved with asphalt, concrete, and bricks. Yet, certain sections reveal steps carved from massive stone slabs, shrouded in dirt and mold. It is in these forgotten corners that Pippo has focused his efforts, driven by a fascination that began one December evening in 2020. His journey has led him to explore not only cemeteries but also private homes and public buildings, where graves have been displaced by modernization.
Pippo's discoveries are varied, ranging from the graves of noblemen and community leaders to prominent businessmen and philanthropists. Despite the rich history of Semarang’s Chinese inhabitants, this aspect of the city's past remains underexplored. The mid-1960s saw a wave of anti-communist and anti-Chinese sentiment across Indonesia, which resulted in significant losses of Chinese history. Pippo’s work aims to restore what was lost.
“Semarang is rich in history. Unfortunately, the history of its Chinese community is not well-studied … there has not been much attention given to these graves,” – Pippo
Pippo documents his explorations on Facebook, sharing his visits to historical sites and ruins of ancient Javanese temples and palaces. His posts have attracted numerous requests from individuals seeking information about their missing ancestors. Through his efforts, Pippo has successfully reconnected dozens with their long-lost relatives.
Bram Luska, a fourth-generation Chinese Indonesian, became intrigued by these graves after meeting Pippo. Together, they have delved into the histories of Semarang's Chinese community. Bram's own family history includes connections to a lieutenant who served as a government-appointed official during the Dutch colonial era.
“A lot of Chinese people, particularly in my generation, no longer know what their Chinese surnames are. They don’t speak a word of Chinese,” – Bram Luska
“They don’t know where their family is from or when their ancestors first came to Indonesia,” – Bram Luska
“That is unfortunate. Because this is our history, heritage and identity,” – Bram Luska
By around 1900, Semarang was home to a significant Chinese community. Among its most prominent members in the early 20th century was Oei Tiong Ham, known as the "Sugar King of Java." The community's history is interwoven with the city’s development yet remains largely undocumented.
Urban expansion has encroached on many cemeteries in Semarang. As Bambang Wuragil explains, this has led to graves being exhumed and bodies cremated to make way for public housing projects.
“People no longer bother to know who their great grandparents are. So they feel that (these graves) don’t belong to them or at least don’t pay enough attention to them,” – Bambang Wuragil
“At the same time, the government needed land for public housing so the graves are emptied and the bodies are cremated,” – Bambang Wuragil
“Because items related to death are considered unlucky in Chinese tradition, tombstones are often discarded once the body is exhumed,” – Bambang Wuragil
Despite these challenges, efforts to salvage and restore these historical markers continue. The PSMTI (Indonesian Chinese Clan Social Association) has played a pivotal role in preserving dozens of tombstones, including some of Semarang's oldest. Pippo and Bram have succeeded in locating what is believed to be Semarang's oldest tombstone, dating back to around 1701 during Qing dynasty emperor Kangxi's reign.
“After we did more research, it turned out that my friend, who I never knew is a Gui, is related to the lieutenant. She then thanked us for finding his grave,” – Bram
In one instance, Pippo and Bram received a request from a woman living in China who possessed an old photograph of her ancestor’s grave. Determined to help her find it, they searched tirelessly for a week before finally unearthing its location.
“There was a woman who now lives in China. She had an old photo of her ancestor’s grave and wondered if the grave was still there. We spent about a week searching but we eventually found it,” – Bram
“We can provide historians with data from the ground. We collect pieces of the puzzle for them to put together into a bigger picture. That to me is very exciting and important,” – Bram
The efforts of Pippo and his collaborators extend beyond mere discovery; they aim to document these findings for future generations.
“That way they are accessible to the deceased’s descendants, the general public and anyone looking to study these tombstones,” – Bambang Wuragil
“That way, future generations can use it as a reference and help them know better their family’s history, where their ancestors are from and what role they played in Semarang’s history,” – Pippo
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