Tokyo is known around the world for its brilliant culinary scene. Chefs over there spend their whole lives working to master a handful of classic dishes. Yuka Hayakawa is a master of the onigiri. Kanejiro Kanemoto, the fifth-generation owner, operates a popular sit-down restaurant known for its freshwater eel. Yukitaka Yamaguchi, the “Tuna King,” has made a name for himself at Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market. Meanwhile, Osamu Tomita, a chef and self-proclaimed “ramen head,” is obsessed with mastering the perfect balance of flavors in ramen broth. These culinary masters are a brilliant reflection of the Japanese “shokunin” culture, where craftsmanship, devotion, and total commitment to high standards are at its core.
Yuka Hayakawa’s love for onigiri — a Japanese staple and comfort food — has shaped her culinary experience. Whether serving one with pork belly, garlicky fried tofu or spicy tuna, each rice ball may be simple, but powerful flavors shine through and that’s Hayakawa’s skill at work. Her no-frills approach to crafting onigiri has launched her into passionate TikTok fame, letting the world in on the simple stunning nature of this often overlooked dish.
Yukitaka Yamaguchi has earned quite the reputation at the Toyosu fish market. Clicking on his sushi, he artfully chooses only the best pink tuna—neither fatty nor dry—for his creations. At 62 years old, Yamaguchi has no intentions of slowing down anytime soon, still ringing with the joy of his craft. He serves the bowls of his world-famous ramen for under $20, so just about anyone can afford to eat his delicious ramen. His passion shines through in his commitment to finding the best ingredients and refining flavors.
Kanejiro Kanemoto’s unagi restaurant has been welcoming customers in Tokyo since 1810. He goes deeply into the culinary and cultural life of an eel restaurant, all hinging on the sauce. Kanemoto’s family story cuts to the heart of Japanese culinary ethos, which prioritizes precision over production. He notes that mastering the art of grilling eel requires a lifetime of dedication, stating, “Eight years for splitting the eel and a lifetime for grilling.” His dedication to upholding old world techniques has made his small restaurant a national standard bearer.
The Shokunin Spirit
The original Japanese meaning of the word “shokunin” is someone who’s a master of their craft. This ethos extends across Tokyo’s culinary landscape, where chefs dedicate decades of work toward their craft. Each chef featured above is a testament to this spirit, having spent years honing their craft and developing essential flavors.
Kanejiro Kanemoto explains that mastery in the culinary arts takes time. “It takes three years to master skewering.” He has a passion for saving the legacy of unagi. Aside from advocating for change, he’s training the next generation of chefs right in his own family. Japan’s shokunin spirit is about more than just mastery. It’s about a deep reverence for the ingredients, the craft, and the process.
Osamu Tomita’s modern style of making ramen is an example of how shokunin philosophy can be reinterpreted and adapted for the present day. He says that noodle mania has really taken off in only the last few years. “In the past, for ramen, the soup was the most important thing and the noodles were not so important,” he reflects. “In the last 10 or 20 years, noodles have been getting more and more attention.”
This evolution is testament to how chefs grow and change while still honoring their history. It celebrates their love of being in the kitchen and creating stellar meals that please guests.
The Pursuit of Flavor
Flavor is the soul of every great dish. Finally, in Tokyo chefs go all out with umami. This fifth taste enhances the overall culinary experience, working in harmony with sweet, salty, sour, and bitter tastes. A love of umami-infused ingredients is key to the greater identity of Japanese cuisine.
Spearheading this realization, Yukitaka Yamaguchi declared, “If it isn’t worth keeping, we won’t maintain it.” His relentless pursuit of quality ingredients ensures that every bowl of ramen reflects not just flavor but a story rooted in tradition. Yamaguchi’s dedication is further emphasized by his statement: “I’m always thinking of tuna, whether I’m awake or asleep.”
Likewise, Kanejiro Kanemoto reminisces on his decades of craft in flavor creation. He acknowledges that true appreciation comes with time: “You won’t understand in your 20s or your 30s. It’s not until you’re 40s or 50s that you understand the subtle taste of that sauce.” Depth of knowledge isn’t only key to culinary excellence, it’s foundational to all the greatness great chefs create.
The fastidious care for detail that these chefs embody bring Tokyo back to the fore as a global food capital. Home to more Michelin Star restaurants than any other city—including Paris—Tokyo is easily the most famous foodie magnet on the planet.
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