Modest fashion is having a moment at this very second. From developers to designers, a diverse group of women are working their magic to transform the industry’s landscape. Founded in 2016 by Ozlem Sahin Ertas, Modest Fashion Week has become a key launchpad for this movement. The first such event was held in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, creating history in the celebration of modest clothing.
By creating a supportive and inclusive space, Modest Fashion Week fosters an atmosphere of creativity. It provides a full spectrum of other services, such as photography, videography, choreography and model casting. Now that the movement has built so much wave, it seems to be attracting interest from popular brands and influencers mostly based out of the Middle East. This conservative-dress-code-wearing, ambassador-producing region is a big part of what makes the modest fashion narrative turn.
In many ways, that embrace into the broader fashion world was something the industry was initially not very keen on, especially following 9/11. Recent trends suggest more acceptance and awareness of the diversity that has always existed in the fashion industry. This piece dives into the history of modest fashion, exploring how it enhances the lives of women of all religious affiliations and shapes the global economy.
Modest Fashion Week’s Influence
Modest Fashion Week has since evolved into an essential movement in the fashion industry. It provides a lively space for professionals to share innovative ideas and collaborative approaches. Ertas emphasizes that the event is not merely about showcasing clothing but rather about creating a supportive environment for emerging talent.
“Paris Fashion Week is all about designers competing to buy competitive slots; our Modest Fashion Week revolves around fostering new talent.” – Ozlem Sahin Ertas
The event also focused on creating an environment in which various interpretations of modest fashion could exist side by side. It empowers women to showcase their unique self without compromising on the values of modesty that they might choose for themselves or accept in their communities. This complex and layered approach hits home with a lot of women who have been fighting for representation in the fashion space for decades.
We can’t discount the role of social media. In early 2024, content creator Jools LeBron made “very demure, very mindful” go viral on TikTok, and the phrase passed through the rest of social media like wildfire. This viral moment brought even more attention to how the modest fashion scene is increasingly drawing in a wide range of fashion lovers.
Challenges and Criticism
Though the modern modest fashion movement has gained a significant amount of momentum, it comes with its own set of complications and critiques. Many scholars have argued that the term modest has specific, and potentially harmful, implications. Reina Lewis, a Professor of Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion, notes that critics often associate modesty with self-deprecation and lack of assertiveness.
“Some women don’t want to be associated with a word which means self-deprecating, humble and not assertive.” – Professor Reina Lewis
What’s often left out of the conversation is how modest fashion fits into conservative political narratives. The term “modest” has been used in the past as a means of shaming and regulating women’s choices in other areas, too. This uncertainty has resulted in a considerable and contentious discourse among feminist theorists and activists regarding the impact of modesty today.
It is essential to recognize that many women involved in the modest fashion movement prioritize personal agency over societal expectations. As Lewis states, “Women who are part of the modest fashion movement would say they are not dressing to judge other women — but instead, for themselves.”
Economic Impact and Market Growth
The economic opportunity of the emerging modest fashion market is huge. A 2019 report found that 86% of Muslim women had experienced being “ignored” by high street fashion brands in the UK. In turn, brands are starting to understand the importance of reaching this demographic.
According to estimates, Muslim consumers are expected to spend approximately €364.5 billion on fashion in 2024. This means a huge opening for the thriving market to expand and diversify! Brands that successfully pivot into this fast-growing market can expect huge return on investments.
Most importantly, Lewis illustrates that strategic partnerships with influencers can result in massive returns on investments for brands. Further, DKNY didn’t sweat the small stuff by applying the same principle to their current lines. They recruited popular Middle Eastern bloggers Yada Golsharifi and Tamara Al Gabbani to help style out these pieces. This unique collaboration led to substantial social media engagement and exposure for the brand.
“DKNY used existing items from their collections, but got two popular Middle East bloggers to style the items. This allowed DKNY to get a huge amount of social media traction.” – Professor Reina Lewis
With the right approach, brands will jump at the opportunity to engage with multicultural consumers. In order to do so effectively, they need to authentically and respectfully engage these markets. To produce culturally relevant work, Mariah Idrissi adds that it’s imperative to work alongside experts in those cultural fields.
“If you want to work with a demographic that maybe you’re not an expert in or don’t have a background in, just work with them.” – Mariah Idrissi
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